The break up

Most people on my program have really liked Spain, but I think that I have fallen head over heels in love with Sevilla. I’m starting to get the feeling that the break up is on the horizon. I have begun being emotional Elaine 2 weeks earlier than planned; there is no stopping my tears.  My parents will land in Sevilla in 9 days and between that time I have the hard job of soaking up every last second of Sevilla, saying goodbye to my friends both American and Spanish and probably the most difficult, saying goodbye to my new Spanish family. Last week Mackie came in the living room to find me sitting with Tito in full on tears about leaving. I can’t believe it has already been 4 months and that I will be ending this incredible chapter of my life way too soon. Don’t get me wrong, I am beyond excited to see my family and friends, but I really am afraid of leaving this place and not coming back for a long time. On the happy side I still have 9 days until my parents come and another 9 days in Spain to share with them.

As usual I have to back track to catch you all up on the past few weeks. Two weeks ago my two friends and I took a trip to Malaga, a beach on the Costa del Sur. The town was amazing, surrounded by mountains and the beach and a lot more modern than Sevilla. We spent most of our time there basking in the Spanish sun next to the Mediterranean. I forced them one morning to discover the more cultural aspects of Malaga in the morning when we went to the Picasso museum and Picasso’s home. While we were there an International festival was happening and we of course caved into the Mexico stand for Margaritas and burritos. Not exactly the same but it will hold me over until I come home to real Tex-Mex. 

This past weekend my two friends from Texas, Stephanie and Morgan, came to visit for the weekend. It was so nice to see them, talk about home and share Sevilla with them. I had forgotten how much walking Sevilla is to see everything is in 3 days.

I have lots planned for these final two weeks in Sevilla. Sadly I have a monton of work with finals and classes ending. I’m trying to spread things out and get it done early so I can enjoy my last week here. On the agenda for my last weekend in Sevilla is the Sevilla vs. Barcelona futbol game, a night cruise on the river, and eating snails with my family at Tito’s favorite place in Triana.  

I’m in denial about my break up with Sevilla and will continue to pretend that it’s not happening until next Thursday.

Hasta pronto en los estados,

Elena

The most wonderful time of the year

I fell even more in love with Sevilla last night. At midnight started the lighting of the portada or the entrance to Feria. I’m not even sure really how to describe Feria. I think it is one of those things you have to be there and see it to grasp it. 

                Last night after buying my purple themed flamenco goods,  flower and huge earrings, seeing Dear John in Spanish and finally getting to try orange wine we headed to the lighting of the portada. The Feria grounds are at the end of my street, which will make getting around the next few days a little big of a challenge. I have never seen so many people in Sevilla crammed onto one street going to the same place.

                Feria de Abril is a mixture of a state fair, city wide block party, bar mitzvah party and Sevilla culture all rolled up into one. Families and friends own private tents which are decorated absolutely beautifully. There are also some public tents that are provided by political parties and neighborhoods. The Feria grounds are not used for anything else during the year and is a huge area. Women wear their flamenco dresses and men in suits. Little did I know there is a new fashion every year of flamenco dresses. However, a flamenco dress costs around 300 EUR so I splurged for the earrings and flower instead.

                Each tent is playing some type of Sevillana music. Everyone in the tent and people outside the tents are dancing the famous Sevillana dance. I have attempted to learn, but still stick out so much.

                Served in all the tents is a drink called rebujitos, which is a mixture of sherry and 7-up. We tried some and have to agree it is delicious.

                Tonight we are going to our family’s tent around 10:30 PM. Feria lasts until about 7 AM. Pablo even told me that some people stay until 9 AM, go home and start all over the next day. I can’t wait to spend the night with my family, ride roller coasters with my Spanish brothers and attempt to dance more Sevillana.

                On another note I went to Toledo last weekend with my theatre, dance and music interest group. The town was small, but beautiful with a lot of history. I got to see the Don Quijote windmills and see a very entertaining black light theatre show. 

                Paris was amazing and deserves its own blog post, so that will be coming soon! Only 3 more weeks left until my parents get here. Where did the time go?

Gelato Wonderland

For someone who reads blogs on a daily basis, I have done a terrible job updating mine. I guess I need to back track to give some highlights of March. March was filled with trips and my examens parciales (midterms). Sit back and be prepared to be filled in on a month’s worth of updates.

I went with a group of friends to Ronda, a small town about two hours away. Ronda is one of the most beautiful places I have seen in Spain. Ronda is plopped right on top of a cliff, which made for gorgeous views of the city. We hiked all the way down to the bottom of the cliff to see what looked like Lord of the Rings scenery.

The next trip was a cheaper version of England. I went with my international finance class to Gibraltar. I enjoyed having a monkey on my head, riding in a van to the top of the rock of Gibraltar and finishing the day with fish and chips and a side of cider.

A trip to Cadiz with my program was squeezed in for a day. I had high hopes and wore my bathing suit only to be denied by winds and cloudy skies.

My grades here are made up of a midterm and a final and that is it. So, as one can guess I have had about zero work until my midterms. Seems great until the week before when I have to cram 2.5 months of notes in Spanish into my head. But, I’ll take that over having projects and homework all the time. It has been a nice change of pace from Texas where I usually feel so overwhelmed with all things related to school at all times. This is something I really hope to take home with me. The idea that yes school is important, but you should live your life day by day and soak in every moment. Wait to stress or even better don’t stress at all.

This past week was Semana Santa. The University of Sevilla gets the entire week off for it so three girls and I planned my dream trip to Italy. Many of you know that Italy has been my dream to go to since I was about 12 when I told my middle school boyfriend at the time that I would go to Italy on my honeymoon. Okay, so plans changed a little, but I still had every intention of finding an Italian husband while I was there.

I devoured the sights and food of Rome, Florence and Venice, while those cities in return ate my money. I learned that wine is cheaper than water and to never get out money at an exchange bank. This trip was one of the best experiences I have had and reminded me of how lucky I am to be studying abroad for an entire semester. Here are a few highlights from every city:

Rome: The eternal city. Rome was my favorite city for tourist reasons. Every piece of Rome has an incredible amount of history and you didn’t have to look hard to find it. We crammed Rome into 2.5 days. We didn’t really sleep this trip and I think that we could have just done Rome for half the week and had plenty to do. Before we left I found a free tour guide of Rome. We did one of the city center and another of the historic area. Standing in the Coliseum, Pantheon and the Roman Forum was unreal. How could a building still be standing that old? We took a visit to the Pope and his lovely home in Vatican City. We had a 4 hour guided tour through the beautiful museums and of course the Sistine Chapel.

Florence: Florence reminded me so much of Sevilla. Florence was a much slower pace than Rome and a lot of Italian beauty. My favorite part of this trip was a secret corridor tour Liz and I scheduled at Plazzo Vecchio. Plazzo Vecchio was home to the Medici family. This tour was so DaVinci Code of us: we walked through paintings into secret doors which led to secret rooms and more secret stairs. Let’s just say I have grown a love of secret passage ways. I bought a leather purse at the huge leather market which is so fun to look through. I also decided to eat my weight in Gelato in this city. Good idea? Absolutely. 

Venice: My first trip all by grown up self. While the other 3 girls went to Greece I stuck around in Venice. My hostel in Venice was the best place I could have asked for. I stayed in the 5 bed shared female room. Every night our hostel would go to the market to get food together and bring it back to cook and hang out. I met people from all over the world: Brazil, Argentina, Israel and Germany. The first morning I was there I took a water taxi (these taxis are the best thing ever created. It is a boat ride everywhere you want to go) to Murano, the most famous glass blowing island. I got to see how they made glass and bought a pair of earrings. Venice was not made for directionally challenged people. I decided that if I got lost I would just walk toward the water. I thought it was a brilliant idea until I realized that the whole island has water running all the way through it. My favorite part of Venice was the Jewish Ghetto, the oldest Jewish Ghetto in Europe. Having skipped Seder for the first time in my life and of course having trouble keeping Passover in Italy I guilty walked into the quarter. I heard the familiar greetings of Shabbat Shalom and even got some free matzo.

I got back to Sevilla around 11:30 PM on Friday to the world of Semana Santa. Sevilla has the biggest Semana Santa celebration in the world. I have never seen so many tourists in all of my time in Sevilla or heard so much English. They are all here to see the Pasos, or parades. I don’t the word parades fits in with Semana Santa and the world float doesn’t even touch what they carry. See the pictures below of the beautiful floats that about 50 men carry and the KKK style outfits the brotherhoods of the churches wear.

The people of Sevilla are moved so much by Semana Santa. I saw women cry over the 7th Virgin Mary they saw and men dress in their nicest suits for the parades. I think I will have a better grasp on the love of Feria than Semana Santa.

If this past weekend wasn’t enough I venture to Paris this Thursday. I am so happy that I will get to see so many people from home. My roommate from both freshman year and last year, Sarah is studying there for the semester so she has been helping me plan. I will also get to see Scott and Sarah, two friends from Longhorn Singers.

The month of April will be incredible, but I have a feeling it is going to be over before I know it. On the schedule is Paris this weekend, Toledo the next, Feria during the week with a few beaches in Southern Spain on the Costa del Sol the weekend after and the last weekend one of my best friends from Texas, Stephanie is coming to Sevilla. After all of that I only have two weeks left until my parents come.

I cannot believe I’m already talking about the end of my trip. The weather in Sevilla is beyond beautiful. We have started sitting by river every day and soaking in the sun and Sevilla. I plan on taking advantage of the gorgeous city of Sevilla each day I have left here. Leaving here will be like leaving camp, which one again my poor parents have the wonderful job of taking me away from.

Don’t worry still over a month of adventures and I promise to be better at the updating. Hope you made it to the end of this long blog.

Besitos,

Elena

African Lands

4 out of 7 continents=done.

A 2 hour bus ride to Algeciras and a 1 hour ferry ride and we were in the African lands. Surprisingly, being in Ceuta is still part of Spain, but in Africa. We stayed and explored Ceuta for awhile- saw Spain from the other side of Africa and saw where the Mediterranean and Atlantic met.  We took a bus to Tetuan later that day and got to the hotel around dinner time. 

Morocco was different. I’m not sure if it was a good different or a bad different. The landscape of Morocco is beautiful, but the cities itself are poor and dirty. The towns we went to were small and the economy is solely based on markets and other commercial ways.  It was a little depressing to walk around these small streets and see these people who are suffering so much and have little to no opportunity in the future. I felt like I was almost making a spectacle of their lives.

The system of government in Morocco also still amazes me. Women just recently gained the ability to divorce her husband with 12 male witnesses. The land is still ruled by a king who serves as both the political and religious leader.

It was a trip that I know will stick with me and one I would have never planned any other time in my life.

Day 2

We woke up early and headed to Chefchaouen, the blue city. Everything in the town is painted blue. In the summer time it keeps the city cool and in the winter retains the heat. If the floor is painted blue that means that the street is a dead end. This was my favorite of the cities. We went to a weaving factory to see how they hand weave rugs, scarves and tapestries. Later we went to a spice shop where we got to smell, try and buy Moroccan spices. My cooking skills are still lacking so I decided to skip out on the buying part.

Morocco is very strange out their government and pictures. When we went through customs we were told to put our cameras out of reach so we didn’t get in trouble by the police. The same thing happened when we saw the government building in Chefchaouen.

For lunch we ate like kings in a palace in Tangier. Food in Morocco was my favorite part of the trip. I was excited to try couscous for the firs time not in a box! There were belly dancers, henna tattoos and fire tricks during lunch which always makes for a better meal. After lunch we took a quick tour of Tangier before heading back to Tetuan.

We got back to Tetuan near dinner time which was the fantasy show. We walked into a yard of grass and watched Arab men on horseback with fire and guns, a scary trio. The dinner was incredible. We sat under a huge tent with Moroccan fabric in tables of about 10. Every course had a different show to go with it. There were acrobats, fire dancers, and belly dancers. One of the best things is Morocco’s mint tea that is served for dessert and as a welcoming. It is so sweet and severed with the best cookies.

Day 3

We woke up and headed to Tangier. We got to ride camels on the beach! After this we got to see the Cave of Hercules which was really impressive minus the vendors that decided to ruin the atmosphere but setting up shop inside the cave.

So there it is, my big Moroccan trip crammed into 3 days.

On another note:

I have decided that this is the month that my Spanish will really progress. It has improved so much, but I feel like I’ve hit a point where I’m only moving very very slowly. I have decided to push myself out my comfort zone at least once a day to improve my Spanish. Hopefully but the end of this month I see a huge improvement!

The Pomagranet

Granada has made it to the top of my favorite cities list after my trip there this past weekend. The city is surrounded by beauty and history. The city has a perfect back ground of the Sierra Nevada Mountains with snow on top year round. Every road has narrow cobblestone winding roads, which provided for a really scary bus ride around the city. Those bus drivers have serious talent and I felt like I got a rollercoaster ride for 1.20 EUR. Granada is one of the few cities in Spain that still has a huge visible Muslim influence. The tourist stores were all packed with hookah, Arabic writing and tapestries. The Muslim architecture is beautiful. 

 

Click here to see my video of the Alhambra!

The first day we arrived, unpacked at the hotel and got prepared for our 4 hour tour of the Alhambra. Our hotel was located right next to the Alhambra which was really awesome to walk next to when going to other places. The Alhambra is the most incredible palace I have seen so far in Spain. It is so huge that it was once its own city. The Alhambra was first a Moorish fortress that later the Christians conquered (like most things in Spain) to make the King’s place. At least they were nice enough to leave the architecture. Each room of the Alhambra had its own story: the king’s favorite wife room, the lucky room, etc. My favorite was the plaza inside which had a large fountain that symbolized eternity. The water coming out of the fountain was birth and the flowing of water the continuing of life. Each color in the Alhambra signifies something different- green for the Gods, blue is water, etc. It is amazing to me how detailed and intact everything is. 

Later that day three girls and I headed to the market, which was so fun to walk around. It got me excited for Morocco this weekend because I feel like that is how it is going to be lots of junk and haggling. I bought a scarf that is very Sevilla looking. I got asked for directions yesterday by some Spanish tourists, I guess I am really starting to look like I fit in.

The next day we visited a typical Granada neighborhood. It was beautiful, all white and close together. They style there is to have plates and ceramics put on the walls. It is giving me ideas for my Spanish themed room next year, be prepared.

I am very excited for this week. Last night I went to a flamenco show at the Teatro Central. I took the bus for the first time to get there and it was a success! The show was incredible. It had five dancers in total with 2 guitarists and 3 singers. Today I am meeting with my intercambio for the first time. We are going to 100 Montaditios, which on Wednesday has 1 EUR drinks and sandwiches (a montaditio). On Friday a group of us are going to Jerez, a town about an hour away from Sevilla. They are famous for their Sherry, flamenco, horses, and motorcycle racing. An odd combination. When we are there on Friday there will be a flamenco festival so we will definitely be participating in a workshop and seeing shows. We are also planning on going on a vineyard tour. Friday night is a hip-hop show in Sevilla that benefits Haiti. On Saturday I head to Africa to Morocco! I’m not every sure what to except, but I’m extremely excited for this once in a lifetime experience, especially the camel riding. We will be there from Saturday to Monday. Monday we don’t have class because of the Puente (holiday) Dia de Andalucía.

We finally finished booking all of our hostels for Italy. I can’t believe I have been here for over a month. Everything is finally so comfortable and I feel at home. I cherish every minute I am here in this beautiful city and can’t wait for more adventures! 

PS- Window shopping here is quite the art. Shoe stores have all of their shoes on displays outside the store. The only reason you go into a store is if you see a shoe you like and have a serious desire to buy it.

Mucho amor,

Elena

Flamenco and Zebras

There is something about traditional flamenco singing that makes me cringe. I realize it is all about passion and expression; however I feel like they are in terrible pain when they sing. Watch below:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxClJJxlbVs

 I have grown a big appreciation for the dancing and guitar playing. My favorite class so far is my flamenco class at the university. By the way I am astonished that I get to go to class everyday in this building:

The class is split up into two parts: learning the history and different styles and rhythms of flamenco and the second part practicing. The rhythm is so different from anything I have ever heard. It is so difficult to pick up that I am amazed by the skills of these flamenco dancers and guitarists. Flamenco started in Andalucía and I’m so lucky to be able to learn it and then go out and fully experience the culture of it.

On another note, this past weekend I went to Aracena and Cadiz for Carnaval. Aracena was a great little city that I felt I didn’t get enough time to experience. We first went to a mine close to Aracena. I’m not really sure the point of the tour of the mine. The only great thing was we got to see the only river that is red, el Rio Tinto. In Aracena we saw Gruta de las Maravillas, the most visited caves in Spain. Later that day we ventured back to Sevilla to get ready for Carnaval. We left Sevilla at 8 PM and when we arrived it was one of the craziest things I have ever seen. I dressed up as a zebra for the occasion with a mask and tail. There were thousands of people crammed into one city. I’d like to think of it as a grown up Halloween.

This weekend I’m going on my first overnight trip to Granada. The past few weeks have been packed with trying to plan every trip. Italy was booked last week, today I booked Morocco and Paris is in the works. I’m so excited to start my European travels. I feel like the time here is going so incredibly fast. I could do an entire year here no problem.

I have started to accomplish my list of “85 things that must be done in Sevilla” little by little. I went on an adventure by myself after class yesterday to Plaza de America and to the archeology museum. I spent over 3 hours exploring parts I haven’t seen yet. I got incredibly lost coming home, but the beauty of this city hit me. I always wonder if the beauty and history of Sevilla has become jaded on Sevillians. I hope I don’t get to that point while I’m here.

 I’m going to my first play tomorrow with my interest group. The show is called “El Orfelinato” and I’m only hoping for positive things mostly that it doesn’t all go over my head.

Miss all of you!

Besitos,

Elena

A otra cosa mariposa!

Highlights from this past week:

1.       Seeing the Cathedral and climbing up to the top of the Giralda. The Giralda is the bell tower of the Cathedral. We went up 36 flights to see the beautiful view of Sevilla. 

2.      Going to Cordoba. A really beautiful town with one of the oldest synagogues. My favorite part was the Mosque now Cathedral. The architecture is incredible and so detailed. The mosque is made up of over 113 red and white marble arches. Cordoba used to be a very Jewish town, but our guide told us that now there aren’t any that live there. 

3.      Finally finding the Calle Feria Market after 3 times and trying my first Spanish olives. They were grown in the owner’s back yard and delicious.

4.      Going to a Flamenco show. Monday night 5 of us went to this wonderful show. I’m not sure that I could ever find the place on my own again. We took a bunch of small streets and ended up at what looked like an apartment with a red door. We walked in to find a room full of people in absolute silence watching the show. We ordered tinto con limon and sangria and took it all in.

Things I’ve noticed:

1.       Dogs. They are weirdly well trained here. No one has them on a leash but they follow right behind their owners. When the owner goes into a store the dog waits for them outside. I have tried a few times to trick the dogs into coming with me but they won’t leave. Also, no one picks up the dog poop. They poo on the sidewalk, no one will say anything.

2.      Your wedding ring goes on your right hand

3.      The walking pace is perfect for me. Slow slow slow.

4.      Men yelling profane things is not something to fuss about.

5.      There is so much PDA here.

I’m auditioning tomorrow for the Universidad de Sevilla choir. The audition process should be really different being in all Spanish. It is a relatively big group of around 50 people. I know it can’t compare to Singers, but it is some way for me to sing.

Heading to the Mueso de Bella Artes right now with a friend!

Hasta pronto!